Apparently this is more likely with sparge water pH above 6.0. The biggest disappointment is when you spend more than half a day brewing, and you don't end up with an optimum volume for the fermenter. The hotter the sparge water the better it will rinse the sugars from the grains, however, sparge water is usually always cited at 168F to 170F because at 170F the tannins and other nasties in the grain husks become soluble enough to be rinsed into the wort. The reality is that there's very little you can do to mess up a batch during the pre-boil stage. I used to freak out over these issues when I was a beginning brewer. Question: Is there any way to manually adjust the sparge water used I always. (I do 3.6 gallon batches which suits me.) Im now trying to really dial in the numbers. If time is not an issue, and the kettle is short, I prefer to add remaining sparge water to the bed of grain and let it sit for another 30 minutes before adding to the kettle. Ive been using BS for a year now to tweak an all-grain, full-boil process in the kitchen using a standard 5-gallon pot. It indicates that the full volume of water be in the HLT. My understanding is that we want to sparge with hot (180-190°) water '.in order to stop all enzyme activity'. I have always had problems with both water volumes (too much sparging recommended) and estimated Final Gravity (too low). This obviously affects the original gravity, but it definitely saves time. Looking at it closer, I realized that I have a setting or equipment profile value wrong. In beersmith 3 I have matched a target profile from my municipal water. 2020 Update on grain absorption and water profiles: I have just started using my Braumeister again after a 3 year holiday (moved to Italy) and have updated to Beersmith 3. I've also used the excess and available sparge water to add volume to a shorted fermenter. You can always turn off the valve when your runnings reach the desired level. and when evaporation is expected during the boil. I find it better to have too much sparge water on hand when the kettle volume appears insufficient. I’ve written many posts on why the proper mash pH in the 5.2-5.6 range is important for brewing your best beer, and V2. This is actually a very good topic and I've found myself in situations where I've had both too much sparge water, and not enough. One of the most anticipated new features in BeerSmith 2.3 is the new water analysis and mash pH tools available.
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